July 6, 2019
After traveling from Amritsar to Pathankot early in the morning, we set out on a journey toward the Himalayas aboard the historic Toy Train. Ahead of us lies a slow but scenic train ride of approximately 95 kilometers. The history of this railway line dates back to the early 20th century (the 1920s), and today it is considered one of the most special train routes in the foothills of the Himalayas. Featured on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List, this line follows the contours of nature rather than digging tunnels like other mountain railways; passing through only two tunnels along the entire route, it glides over more than 900 bridges and viaducts. The name "Toy Train" comes from the appearance of the small trains designed to fit the narrow tracks winding through the mountains.
Accompanied by the steady rhythmic sound of the tracks, we pass through forests, small villages, and valleys. As the route climbs higher, the scenery gradually changes.
There are two classes on the train, First Class and Second Class; however, even "First Class" is not a luxury or air-conditioned carriage in the traditional sense. It is a simple section cooled mostly by ceiling fans. As the train moves forward, I begin to think of this less as a means of transportation and more as a travel experience designed for taking in the views.
As we move away from India's crowded cities and approach the foothills of the Himalayas, the elevation difference begins to make itself felt. The first stop on our journey will be Kangra. While Pathankot lies at an elevation of 386 meters above sea level, Kangra is at around 700 meters. Meanwhile, Dharamshala, our final destination at the end of the day, sits at an elevation of 1,500 meters. Reaching there in a single vehicle is not possible; transfers are required.
After getting off the train in Kangra, we continue our journey on an old bus. Our windowless bus climbs upward along winding mountain roads. The colors shift, and the green grows richer. In contrast to the tranquility of the train ride, we experience a crowded and noisy trip. Still, enjoying the view remains pleasant.
After a trip of about 10 hours total that began at 5:00 AM, we reach Dharamshala, but our journey is not over yet. The place we are staying is located in the village of Thatri, slightly higher than Dharamshala. We continue our way by taxi. Still, the vehicle can only take us up to a certain point. We must cover the remaining distance on foot with our backpacks. This is the final and most exhausting part of the road. But reaching beautiful things is always like this; it is never easy.
Where we are staying sits at an altitude of roughly 1,700 meters—a remarkably peaceful place with crisp, fresh air. After the air pollution in Delhi, this cleanliness truly feels as if we have arrived in another world.
Our accommodation consists of small, cozy houses nestled among the trees. Because the air cools down at night, blankets are always provided in the rooms; the interiors are decorated with patterned textiles and warm colors. Over the coming week, a quiet village life awaits us, far removed from urban living.
This journey, which began early in the morning, did not simply take us from one city to another. With every mode of transportation, we climbed a little higher, traveled a little farther, and reached a little deeper into the silence.
Sometimes the best part of arriving somewhere is that getting there was not easy at all. Because as the journey lengthens, the destination seems to become just a little more meaningful.