August 28, 2019
During our days in Bali, we decided to try something we had never done before: surfing. In this life, you never know what you will and won't like. And you can never know without trying.
Before heading down to the beach, we spent a few minutes practicing our balance on the sand. Even just imitating standing on the board was enjoyable in itself. When we reached the beach, we realized the sea was much choppier than it looked, and the water was quite cold. This was the first surfing experience for both of us.
The instructor first gave a brief orientation. One side of the beach was covered with mossy, slippery stones; the other side was similarly rocky. Therefore, we needed to stay in the middle area where the other surfers were. He also explained how we should fall off the board. Because it turns out that the main issue in surfing isn't standing up, but falling properly.
The first attempts didn't go quite as we expected. Our feet slipped, and we just couldn't find our balance on the board. After a few tries, both of us were completely exhausted, but I have to admit, the whole effort was incredibly fun. The instructor's final assessment was clear: I was keeping my front foot too close to the edge; it needed to be a bit more centered. Still, he said we were much better than expected for our first time.
Thus, a sweet surfing memory was added to our days in Bali, accompanied by plenty of water, some loss of balance, and lots of laughter. But at the end of the day, I also realized this: surfing is not for me. Maybe that's why it will remain my first and last experience, who knows! As for me, I already miss my bicycle.