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Life in Bali, Prices, and the Kecak Dance

August 24, 2019

After spending a long time in India, we moved on to Thailand; we needed a break to recover from the exhaustion of India and to edit accumulated video footage. Vietnam was planned as our next stop, but one day while sitting in Thailand, we reviewed our itinerary and suddenly found ourselves heading to Bali instead. And we are glad we did.

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Bali, an island in Indonesia, has long been one of Southeast Asia's most popular travel destinations, especially for honeymooners. With its tropical nature, rice terraces, Hindu temples, beaches, and unique culture, it has a distinct atmosphere compared to other Asian islands. While one side of the island features heavy tourist crowds and beach clubs, driving just a few kilometers away places you among rice fields, small villages, and temples. We wanted to step away from Bali's touristy side and stay in a quieter area of the island, with an entire month ahead of us.

Where to Stay in Bali: A House in the Middle of Rice Fields

For those visiting Bali, the most common question is usually "where to stay," as different areas offer vastly different experiences. Areas like Kuta and Seminyak are more lively and touristy, while the surroundings of Ubud stand out with accommodation options surrounded by nature and rice fields. Since we didn't want to stay in a heavily touristy area, we searched for a place in nature on the western side of the island and decided on a treehouse overlooking rice fields via Airbnb. I am leaving the link to our stay here. https://coconutcornerbali.com/

Lisa moved to Bali two and a half years ago and started her own business here; she lives with her three dogs and two cats she rescued from the beach. The accommodation is designed entirely using natural wood materials, complete with a shared living area, a kitchen, and a swing where guests spend time in the evenings.

This was actually one of the best aspects of Bali for us. Once you step away from tourist hubs, the island becomes much quieter. Waking up to views of rice fields in the morning, sitting in the common area in the evening, and observing local village life meant that Bali was no longer just about beaches and tourist spots.

We expected Bali to be more expensive than other Asian countries due to high tourism, but the opposite proved true: despite having traveled in Asia for about four months, it turned out to be one of the cheapest places we encountered. The price per person per night was €7.50, and a meal prepared by the host's assistant cost just €1. Dining out at restaurants increases prices noticeably, but at local spots, you can get a full meal for €1–€2.

Exploring by Scooter

Renting a scooter is the most practical way to explore the island. Since districts in Bali are located far apart, being able to move around without relying on public transportation is a major advantage. The scooter we rented for €45 a month was one of the most affordable rentals we had seen across Asia up to that point.

However, a warning regarding traffic is necessary: roads are congested, and scooter traffic is truly chaotic. Especially in tourist areas, there are moments when hundreds of scooters hit the road simultaneously. Anyone planning to ride here needs to be confident and cautious in heavy traffic. Additionally, distances in Bali do not feel as short as they appear on a map; due to traffic, even a ride of a few kilometers can take much longer than expected.

Seminyak

One of the places we visited while exploring on our scooter was Seminyak. As one of Bali's most popular areas among tourists, Seminyak shows the more modern and lively face of the island with its beaches, restaurants, cafes, shops, and beach clubs. It offers an atmosphere quite different from the peaceful Bali set among rice fields.

Renting a sunbed at Seminyak Beach costs 100,000 Indonesian Rupiah per person. While the beach itself is free to enter, prices rise noticeably compared to local areas due to the surrounding restaurants and beach clubs. Therefore, Seminyak is a place to visit for experiencing the island's touristy and vibrant side rather than its affordable aspect.

Uluwatu Temple and the Kecak Dance

Heading toward the southern tip of Bali, our route brought us to one of its best-known stops: Uluwatu. The Uluwatu area offers an impressive landscape, especially at sunset, with its high cliffs extending into the ocean and Uluwatu Temple built atop these cliffs. Below, waves crash against the rocks forming white foam, and looking out from the cliff, the ocean appears virtually endless.

Wearing shorts is not permitted when entering Uluwatu Temple, which stands on the edge of a cliff; sarongs are provided at the entrance to everyone. The entry fee is 50,000 rupiah per person (around €3). Monkeys, which hold an important place in Balinese culture, roam around the temple grounds. Staff specifically warn visitors that monkeys may grab or damage personal belongings. For this reason, extra care should be taken with easily snappable items like phones, glasses, and hats.

One of Uluwatu's main attractions, more so than the temple itself, is the Kecak Dance performance held here at sunset. Kecak is a traditional Balinese performance, and one of its most striking features is the absence of a traditional musical orchestra. Instead, a large choir of male dancers repeatedly chants rhythmic sounds to create the music and atmosphere for the performance.

The narrative is based on episodes from the Hindu epic Ramayana. Depicting the struggle between good and evil, Rama's quest to rescue Sita, and characters like Hanuman, the story is brought to the stage through dance, acting, rhythm, and vocal chanting. Performed on a cliffside at sunset, it appears to be a compelling experience on paper.

Long lines form for Kecak Dance tickets, which cost €6 per person. This high level of interest has made Uluwatu one of Bali's most popular tourist stops.

Unfortunately, the show itself fell well short of our expectations. Spectators were crammed along the edges, obstructing the view and making it difficult to genuinely enjoy the performance. Expecting a traditional and religious performance, we felt as though we were watching a hotel entertainment show and left early.

Perhaps our expectations differed too much from the experience itself. The cultural and historical significance of the Kecak Dance does not automatically make it a captivating viewing experience for everyone. Particularly in an overcrowded setting where it becomes part of a large show staged for tourists, feeling the cultural context behind the performance can be difficult.

Bali showed us both that it can be an unexpectedly affordable island and reminded us that places visited simply for being "famous" can turn into tourist traps precisely because of that fame. On one side was Uluwatu, where people from all over the world gathered to watch the sunset; just a few kilometers away lay quiet, stretching rice fields.

Sometimes the true value of a place lies not in its most advertised spots, but beside an unexpected rice field.

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