Life at the Peaks of the Himalayas: The City of the Dalai Lama and Mountain Life

The days we spent in Thatri Village have a rhythm as changeable as the weather. It feels as if we experience all four seasons in a single day. The weather phenomena we witness here are unlike anything I have seen before. The weather suddenly shifts and turns severe. It is also here that I witness the largest hailfall of my life. Our day begins by heading down to Dharamshala city center on a morning after a heavy storm.

McLeod Ganj and the Dalai Lama

The McLeod Ganj area of Dharamshala is known as the residence of the Dalai Lama. Nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, this small settlement became an important center for Tibetans who came to India following the 1959 Tibetan Uprising. After the Dalai Lama took refuge in India and settled here, McLeod Ganj evolved over time into one of the most significant hubs for Tibetan culture, Buddhism, and the exiled Tibetan community.

Today, many Tibetans, monks, and Buddhist students can still be seen on the streets. The sound of bells from monasteries, prayer flags, small Tibetan shops, and the settlement nestled among the mountains give the region an atmosphere quite distinct from the rest of India. Here, you are walking not just through a mountain town, but also amidst the traces of a community living far away from its homeland.

The current representative of the Dalai Lama—the spiritual leader Buddhists believe reincarnates into the world—is the 14th Dalai Lama. His residence here transforms McLeod Ganj from merely a tourist destination into a cultural and spiritual center for Tibetans.

Heading Toward the Mountain Peak

Our days pass meditating, taking in the valley view, and savoring local dishes—video editing notwithstanding, of course. But today is hiking day. At 7:00 AM, we put on our sneakers and set off to climb the mountain visible from where we are staying. We could not cross a half-collapsed bridge on the way; instead, we chose to cross from a shallower point by jumping from stone to stone. Passing through a small village, even a snake briefly crossed our path.

After a climb of about 5 hours, we reached an altitude of 2,000 meters by midday. Although the number sounds high, considering the snow-capped mountains behind us rise between 4,000 and 5,000 meters, we were actually not that high yet. Along the way, we came across a small village of about 10 households and the hut of a lone watchman living at the head of a pipeline carrying water to the villages. This solitary life spent in silence in the middle of the mountain seemed strangely peaceful to me.

One thing that caught my attention while walking here was how closely integrated the mountains were with every aspect of life. Houses, roads, water lines, and small settlements are scattered among steep slopes. As you move away from the city, man-made elements diminish, replaced by the silence of the forest, rocks, and the ever-changing mountain landscape.

Bucket Shower: A Simple Yet Effective Method

Since hot water does not run from the tap where we are staying, there is a bucket in every room; hot water is filled into this bucket, and showers are taken this way. What initially felt primitive is actually quite logical: one bucket of water is easily enough for two people to shower, and unlike wasting water by leaving the tap running, no water is wasted here.

In a place where water is limited, you realize how much water a shower actually requires. Something this simple feels so unfamiliar to us in modern life.

Women's Labor

In India, we frequently observed women working under the same conditions as men in jobs requiring heavy physical labor. We repeatedly witnessed women carrying heavy stones on their heads in road construction work.

Although this sight was unusual for us, it seems to be part of daily life here. Seeing women actively working in many physically demanding jobs, from mountain road construction to transport, opens another window into how life is sustained in the region.

Leaving the Himalayas

I didn't realize how quickly a week passed. In a short time, we formed strong bonds with the people we met here; we rested, hiked, meditated, and played with the children. When we loaded our backpacks once again and got into a taxi, it felt as though what we left behind was not just a place to stay. With its scenery, air, and people, it was added to the list of unforgettable times. But the journey never ends. Now, a new road lies ahead of us.