April 27, 2019
The Philippines is the first stop of a journey we started with our backpacks, unsure of how long it will last. We plan to spend about a month here, moving to a different spot every week; where we go next is still undecided. Time will tell. For now, the turquoise waters of Coron - a place whose photos we often admired - stretch out ahead of us.
Coron, a popular spot for travelers and diving enthusiasts, is one of the paradise corners of the Philippines. Encompassing every shade of blue, Coron offers travelers many activities with its natural beauty, limestone cliffs, hidden lakes, and diving spots. It even has an African safari park.
Located in northern Palawan, this small fishing town has recently become a popular tourist destination as its natural beauty came into the spotlight. We wanted to start our world trip right here in Coron, a place we had long admired in photos.
Coron can be reached by sea or air. We chose to come from Manila via a 12-hour ferry ride. The journey was not very comfortable; with delays, it took nearly 20 hours, leaving us thoroughly exhausted. The only thing that slightly lifted our spirits during the ride was watching the sunset over the open sea from the ship's deck.
It is best to set out for Calauit Safari Park early in the morning, right as the sun is rising. The drive, surrounded by palm trees and the scents of nature, is as pleasant a start as the park itself. After about a two-hour drive from central Coron, you reach the Calauit transfer point, and from there, a boat takes you to the island where the park is located.
Inside Calauit Safari Park is a sanctuary home to animals native to both Africa and the Philippines, all free to roam around the island. The park was established in 1976 by the President of the Philippines after the Kenyan government requested help protecting wildlife, and around 100 animals were brought here from Kenya by boat.
The first stop on the Coron Island tour is Kayangan Lake, known as the cleanest lake in the Philippines. Before reaching the lake's crystal-clear blue waters, you have to take a short but steep hike; the view at the top makes the effort well worth it. The water is roughly 70 percent fresh water and 30 percent salt water, which is one of the reasons for its unique clarity.
Nearby Barracuda Lake gets its name from a legendary barracuda believed to live in its waters. For divers, the real attraction is the shift in temperature and salinity as you dive deeper into the lake, giving you the feeling of passing through distinct layers of water.
After stopping at Banul Beach for lunch, we moved on to the most anticipated stop of the day: Twin Lagoon. You can swim through a narrow opening connecting two lakes framed by high limestone cliffs. Feeling the transition from salt water to fresh water as you swim through is one of Coron's most memorable experiences.
Coron is a small, underdeveloped village centered around a single main street. As in much of the Philippines, the main mode of transportation here is the tricycle. As soon as you step onto the street in Coron, the first thing you notice is the smell of food. The street food available along the main road is quite varied, ranging from chicken feet to dried fish.
Despite the heavy crowds of tourists, the number of sandy beaches suitable for swimming is limited. There are relatively few restaurants and bars. Internet connection in Coron, as across most of the Philippines, is very poor. Power and water outages happen frequently, and finding hot water for a shower is nearly impossible.
On our last day, we climbed to the top of the hill and watched the sun set together. As we watched our final sunset in Coron from Mount Tapyas, we knew we would be back on the road the next day for new adventures. The open seas were waiting for us once again.
Watching the sunset from the top of Tapyas, I thought about how this island might seem like nothing more than turquoise waters and limestone cliffs at first glance. Yet a different story is hidden in every corner: the unusual history of a safari park, the legend of a lake, the daily bustle of a town. If there is one thing I learned at the very first stop of this trip, it is this: every place holds more than meets the eye. Just like this island.