Cebu, Queen City of the South: From Kawasan Falls to the Chocolate Hills

After two weeks of village life in Palawan, today we are in Cebu, known as the Queen City of the South and one of the country's oldest and most populous cities. Following the rural life we witnessed in Palawan, we had the opportunity to observe urban life in the Philippines here. During our week in Cebu, we also visited the famous Kawasan Falls and the Chocolate Hills in Bohol.

Christianity's First Stop in the Far East

In 1521, Magellan set foot in Cebu and planted a cross that still stands today. Following that day, the Philippines came under Spanish colonization and began to adopt Christianity, making Cebu the birthplace of Christianity in the Far East. Numerous historical and cultural sites from this past remain around the city.

The Unseen Side of the City

Despite the recent growth of tourism, the poverty rate in Cebu remains quite high; according to statistics, more than 40 percent of the city's population struggles with poverty. Unplanned urbanization is also evident, with slums sitting right alongside luxury homes. Finding trash cans on the streets is almost impossible; roadsides, street corners, and empty lots are filled with abandoned waste. Consequently, air pollution is one of the city's main problems, with local transportation methods playing a major role in it.

Transportation in Cebu

As the main mode of transportation in the city, colorful jeepneys stand out nearly everywhere, operating along specific routes. Alongside jeepneys, tricycles and motorbikes are also widespread; though it seems impossible, up to 8 people can fit into a tricycle, and seeing 3 people on a motorbike is quite common.

Although it is often assumed that the Philippines has year-round summer due to its tropical climate, the actual summer months for the country are considered April and May. Consequently, schools go on break at the end of March and reopen in June.

Kawasan Falls

To spend some time in nature after Cebu's chaotic city life, we took a day trip to Kawasan Falls, one of the most famous waterfalls in the Philippines and even the world. Kawasan features two main waterfalls, both suitable for swimming; in addition, there is a third waterfall rarely visited by tourists. Reaching this third waterfall requires crossing bamboo bridges and climbing submerged staircases.

Bohol and the Chocolate Hills

After crossing over to Bohol, we hit the road on a rented motorbike; those renting motorbikes on the island need to pay attention to parking rules, as parking in the wrong spot can easily lead to a fine. Where we stayed was a small tent campsite away from the city noise, featuring a pool and relaxation areas.

We set out before sunrise to see the Chocolate Hills; it was still dark and raining lightly. Passing through lush green rice fields, we reached the hills located in Carmen, Bohol, after about 2 hours. In this region, which has one of the most unique geographical structures in the Philippines, there are around 1,260 mounds spread across an area of 50 square kilometers. This unique landform was created long ago by the elevation of coral beds and rainwater erosion. During the dry season, because the region receives little rain, the color of the hills turns brown - which is where the name comes from.

After two lovely days in Bohol, we returned to Cebu and wrapped up our final day in the city with a sunset.

What stayed in my mind as I left Cebu: Truly getting to know a city isn't just about visiting its historical sites. The streets showing both faces of the city, luxury residences standing alongside slums, the natural beauty, and the friendly people of the country tell the real story of that city far better than any tourist brochure